23rd July Lands End Finnished at Last

Yesterday we pulled into Lands End around 1:00pm it was no longer a desolate parking spot on the end of the mainland that I remember from many years ago but a commercialized tacky tourist spot for kids all built in the last 10 years or so and after visiting so many wonderful places it was a bit of a disappointment.

As Murray and myself were pulling up into the place there was a familiar cycle coming towards us with the yellow bar bag that I had lent Tim from when we set off and had departed company on the Glasgow to Moffat leg. We welcomed each other as long lost compatriots told great stories of our adventure, now over, we took photos to mark the end of the route as friends before we headed back to Penzance and then go our separate ways. I am stopping down here for a few days before heading back by train.

I would love to tell more of our adventure from Gunnislake to Boswinger but it just poured with rain all days that even my waterproof pannier got a bit wet. The route to Lizzard we were blessed with sunshine but like the previous three days we had many walkers a new terminology invetned by Murray as reference to hills that could not be cycled even in his super low granny gear.

There ends our great adventure and the satisfaction of completing 1040 miles

Monday 19th July Exeter

The morning was filled trepidation about the day ahead only 36 miles but across Dartmoor on the only major road the B3212 and then onto the B3357 at the Two Bridges to Tavistock and crossing from Devon into Cornwall at Gunnislake. This short trip 250m climbs and numerous 100m climbs in total a combined assent of all climbs approaching 2000m which for Tour de France riders may be a small hill but for 65 year old Murray and a overweight 52 year old on loaded touring bikes felt the equivalent of climbing a mountain even though the peaks of our Dartmoor route was only 450m.

We left for once on a sunny morning from YHA on the riverside cycle path into the centre of Exeter with the picturesque cathedral in background at a slow pace knowing what was installed for the day. As we left Exeter had purchased our daily energy provisions, a large packet of jelly babies as we envisaged many jelly baby stops for recuperation, the climbing started and were already into the granny gears.

The day consisted of numerous climbs many of which involved walking followed by downhill rides at which one point I reached 67 kmph (over 40mph),with gravity on my side on the downhills, some long ones over 2km, I flew past a lycra clad roadster on a carbon bike who was still pedalling whilst I just held onto the handlebars for grim death.

It was a long day with no big lunches as they would not have been conducive to the type of cycling on this day with the sun beating down most of the time. We arrived finally to where I thought was the end in Gunnislake only to be confronted with a 2km 1:10 climb so I got and pushed Murray struggled for a while because his granny gear is at least two below mine and whilst his legs seem to be pedalling frantically he was barely going much faster than my walking pace.

We arrived at 6:30pm at the Bridge House B&B, run by a friendly couple who where ex teachers, after our showers we had complimentary tea with home made scones, local clotted cream and jam. At 8:00pm we had a freshly cooked three course meal that would put many classy restaurants to shame, I had smoked salmon starter, trout caught that morning with new potatoes and beans and followed by raspberries in cream and creme fraiche with crunchy broken biscuits mixed in after which this blog and bed. Apparently the breakfast is award winning and we were told to allow at least 40 minutes to get through the courses.

Sunday 18th July Glastonbury

We left early 7:30am the B&B provided a packed breakfast as they don’t serve breakfast until 8:30am. We said goodbye to Paul he was going to cycle and train to Welsh Bicknor to get his car an go back to London.
With an exception of the last 5 miles into Taunton where we used the canal we took A39/A361 roads rather than the planned route we were in Taunton for breakfast at about 9:30. We then carried on the A38 to Willand and stopped for Lunch Cullompton. After a carvery lunch and pint of light bitter we carried on B3181 into Exeter which ran mostly along the motorway route.

We arrived at the YHA in Exeter at 3:00pm much earlier than expected having done 55 miles as opposed to the ambitiously planned 70 miles.

We have now done 909 miles.

Saturday 17th July Welsh Bicknor

We made our own breakfast to make a early start because it was a long day and we left at 7:30am we had to walk our bike on a rough footpath to the footbridge over the river Wye. We took a road right through the Forest of Dean to Bream. We had a look at the YHA which was ST Briavels castle then made our way to Chepstow for coffee.

We used the cycleway across the old Severn Bridge and after day of hills it was mainly flat to Glastonbury the route was mainly Sustran route and included Winscombe railway line converted
into a walking/cycle path and even went through a tunnel. Afternoon/evening was sunny and it was only the second day I wore short sleeves.

We got to Glastonbury 75 miles later at 6:45pm to a grotty town B&B had Italian meal and Paul accompanied me in a few late beers.

Friday 16th July Tenbury Wells.

No local taxi available that morning for 2 hours the manageress gave me a lift and after a bit of driving around we found the place and she had lived in the area all her life. The friendly chap was making final adjustments as I arrived. My bike had brand new carbon forks no more front mudguards because there is lugs for fixing. They would post old forks (still under warranty) and anything I further regarded as non essential to make my load lighter.

At 11:00am took the route recommended by the friendly bike mechanic and with a lighter bikes made relative quick work of getting to Ross on Wye to meet up with Murray before making our way to Welsh Bicknor. The final approach was a tremendous climb to YHA high in the hill with final section a very steep downhill track to what was an imposing vicarage.

Paul joined us from Ealing Cycling Campaign as he would come with ride

We had done a total 778 miles but luckily that day was a short day only about 35 miles.

Thursday 15th July Telford

Away at 7:40am and visited Ironbridge which was built 1779 and was the first iron bridge in the world very impressive structure. After coffee we staggered up a very steep hill to Broseley B4375 to Munch Wenlock , followed by the B4375 and B4365 and the B4361 to Ludlow had a good Thai Lunch.

Then disaster struck when I checked why one of the front pannier was hanging further out and discovered that there was a fracture on the front forks. Pack everything I could into rear panniers and posted the front panniers and brackets and anything I thought I might not need home. Visited the best bike shop around they confirmed it was fractured and said it could collapse at any time they had no spare forks and rang another local shop but they could not help. It would take days to get a replacement. The quest for me was over I sadly said goodbye to Murray and I cycled to the Ludlow train station. I had come 700 miles to be defeated by my bike.

Whilst waiting to get a ticket I called Scherrit in Ealing who runs Pitshanger Whisperer bike place and the place I entrust with anything I can’t do myself. Corrine his wife put me onto Scherrit who told me to wait and he would make enquiries. Within 20 minutes he located a cycle place about 15 miles away Epic Cycles near Tenbury Wells. I got a taxi eventually that would take me and my bike we eventually found it a big barn in the middle of nowhere but had the most impressive display of road bikes I had ever seen under one roof with prices into the thousands. The chap confirmed he could do for me and should be ready at 11:00am next day.

Found a local place called Fountain Inn stopped overnight bar full of local Worcester farmers talking a broad dialect and knocking back the booze following a Hay auction.

Wednesday 14th July Telford

Our morning started early, before 7:00am, with making our own breakfast consisting of muesli, eggs, bacon, tomato, roll and tea. We then loaded our bikes and set of under overcast skies not on the planned route for fear of climbing back up to the Tissington Trail to Ashburne. We went through the village of old stone houses heading south west on the B5054 and then B5053 to Froghall some of the climbs were too steep to cycle and there were many opportunity to stagger up steep hill pushing our heavily loaded bikes.

We had morning coffee and scones with fresh cream at the Frognal steam railway cafe and watched the steam train a very 30’s setting including the music and a steam train shunting carriages. We headed on the A521 Cheadle to Blythe Bridge, B5029 and the A520 to Stone where we had lunch at restaurant La Dolce Vita, good food for lunch time special fish cake starter, lasagna, apple and rhubarb with good custard followed by expresso. The restaurant was situated next to the canal drop lock we watched the long barge move through the lock taking some picture before getting on our bikes with full stomachs it wasn’t long before we were climbing again but at least the gradients were manageable.

We continued on the A520 to Weston, B5026 to Eccleshall, A59/B3062 to Newport we made very good time moving a some spend on not gently rolling hills and only 13 miles from Telford we stopped at Newport in an old fashioned traditional tea house , we were both not very hungry after the generous lunch that we asked for one portion of coffee cake to share, the waiter took must have took pity thinking that we must be trying to save money and gave us a big slice each for the priceof one.

We set off again on the A518 into Telford and my GPS took us to the B&B in Wellington next toTelford where we settled in before going for dinner at one of the best Indian meal I have had in a long time washed down with 3 pints of Cobra in bed by 9:00pm.

Tue 13th July Manchester

We set off for Hartinghton YHA on an overcast day with occasional drizzle towards the end. We took the A6 from Stockport to New Mills then the canal to Whaley Bridge including the original horse tunnel under the canal where we changed branch. We then followed the A5004 to Buxton this was a long but moderate grade climb to over 400m, but compared the original route which I did the previous year I was able to cycle this route.

Walked around Buxton and had pub lunch Giant Yorkshire pudding filled with roast beef dinner and washed down with a pint of Marston Pedigree. We the set of for a climb on the A515, note not the programmed Route 68 which I had done, or it done me, the previous year.

After about 5 slow miles we turned off the A515 down a track and onto Tissington Trail, as disused railway line connecting Ashbourne to canal systems near New Mills and Manchester can infrastructure, which had been converted to walk/cycle way, bliss at last flat hard surface protected hedges and cuttings. We soon arrived at a cycle hire place near our destination for hot chocolate and then a our turning for Hartinghton after a blood curdling descent on a winding road holding onto the brakes we arrived into the village where we had to get off and push our bikes up vertical steep hill to the Youth Hostel.

The Youth Hostel was once a nunnery going back to 1200, owned afterwards by the same family for 600 years and saved by the YHA. It is a picturesque collage of stone building together with farm yard animal including pigmy goats. We booked in, had a hot shower, went washroom to put washing machine on. This place even included a restaurant, excellent non foaming locally made real ale on tap and with the rain pouring outside there was little desire to explore the village. Having settled for 4 pints, hot goats cheese starter, proper beef pie made in tray and an array of local cheeses I was heading for bed by 9:30pm after hanging the wet clothes in the drying room. The minor downside we had to wait for dinner as there was a large party of school children from Northern Ireland for a visit to Alton Towers.

Monday 12th July Ingelton

Murray and myself set off from Ingelton, since we departed company with Tim and have not rejoined him since we left Glasgow.

We decided to avoid the dreaded Route 68 after our previous days experience, we used the A65 bypassing Sedberg, had hot drinks and cake at Long Preston. We moved onto A682 with more hot drinks at Gisburn, the weather was overcast, cold with brief light showers. We stopped at Blackburn for spaghetti and meatballs in a Sicilian Cafe.

Having made good time by avoiding Route 68 we cancelled YHA Mankinholes and arranged to stop at my sisters Elia in Manchester we arrived after almost 70 miles at 7:00pm making the following days shorter.

Monday 12th July Update over half way 600 miles

Late start from Carlisle due to fact that the B&B didn't serve breakfast till 8:00am we knew that the day was going to be tough 60 miles with some tough climbs. As typical whilst the rest of the country has been basking in a heatwave the rain drizzle followed us and the rain gear went on as soon as we left on the A6, known here as the London Rd and in fact much of it is still the original route from Carlisle, then the outpost of the Roman Empire and where Hadrian wall passed. Whilst the Romans built straight roads they took little regards of hills so we spent our time grinding through our gears uphill and free wheeling downhill when head wind allowed it.

We followed the A6 past Penrith where we could not even find a decent cup of coffee and after about 10 miles picked up the B6261 to cut east following the M6 sometime between the separated carriageways but whilst the motorway evened out the topography this single lane track meandered up and down amongst the sheep through to the Yorkshire Dales National Park and on a number of occasions I had walk up and even Murray with his super low granny gear was forced to abandon the pedals and walk. Going downhill was on occasions a death defining act hanging onto brakes levers. This route was infact one of Sustrans inventions for a cycle route N68. We eventually abandoned this route at the first opportunity A65 where the climbs were less steep.

This had infact been 67 hard miles and having booked into YHA in Ingelton, a place I had not been to since early wild days of Marconi for potholing expeditions. I popped to the pub for a few pints of Thwaits and a proper pie, not just a piece of flaky pastry shove on top of a bit of stew, and watched the first half of the world cup. Falling asleep and unable to keep awake I retired to bed for the second half and went out like a light, snoring contently I was told.

The following morning I had to attend to bike the gear changing was getting progressively worse and before breakfast fitted new gear cable and sleeving to the rear dérailleur gears. I agreement with Murray decided to abandon route N68 for the last leg especially as it included even higher climbs than before and rerouted on A roads. Despite the height climbs we made good times mainly because the gradients were manageable, that we didn't stop at the YHA in Mankincoles/Tod Morden that we soldiered on to Manchester to my sister Elia in Heaton Moor. Whilst this was maybe our longest distance in one day it was far from the hardest.

The going to Manchester was a great move it would shorten the next day to less than 40 miles but with a 450m climb we are going to need this shorter route, So tomorrow the Buxton and the Peak District and 20 miles of abbandoned railway line converted to a cycle route.

Picture tommorow or when I next get coverage

Saturday 10th July Carlisle

We left Glasgow finding the Clyde river path missing the rush hour city traffic and we got most of the way out of the city when we came to a point where the path was closed and the diversion through industrial estate before we rejoined the path but around Bothwell the gentle turned into a mountain bike assault course and we had had to resort to the A72 to Lanark under the driving rain.

We picked up SUSTRAN cycle route 74 into the country lanes which entailed a very steep 250m which left us pushing the bikes on foot and even that was with some difficulty. We then rode for what seemed an eternity on this 250m ridge until we got near Uddington after which we picked up the old A74 road which follows M74 most of the way with a purpose cycle path either seperated from the main road or on an extra wide hard shoulder we had undulating routes which was not steep but tiring all the same. Around Abbington/Crawford the weather started improve and the last 20km was virtually all downhill with hardly any pedalling as we coasted into a picture postcard town of Moffat and into a comfortable B&B with pub and restaurant after a few pints and a stroll around the place to work of dinner it was early to bed. It was one of long days at 67 miles.

The next day it was 7:00am hearty english breakfast and into the drizzle as predicted by the weather forecast and we were soon back on cycle route 74, this must be the most complete cycle route in the country and the best which took us most of the way past Lockerbie that we carried down this way taking a shortcut on the planned route all the way past Gretna Green, and, yes there were weddings going on.

We soon passed into England with memories of Scotland being mainly rain and driving wind and feeling cold. I have been forever cured of ever considering a holiday in such a place beautiful as scenery may have been. We had a sandwich and took photos by the welcome to England plaque and got of the road for Carlisle.

Whilst most of trip was under pouring rain it was mainly downhill, with a tailwind rather than the typical headwind. the re-route we did made this only about 41 miles instead 51 miles. We were in Carlisle for 1:00pm compared with around 6:00pm on some of the other days.

Thursday 8th July Glasgow

At last I have reached coverage for internet access.

We left Inverness via the Caledonian Canal and started on beautifully tarmacked footpath which turned into a overgrown track for over 30 minutes before braving the A82 besides the Loch Ness an undulating taxing ride with a couple of coffee breaks until we got lovely Fort Augustus for a hearty lunch and a pint besides the locks of the Caledonian Canal amazing that they could pass ocean ships. Along the canal we saw various swing bridges operating and no much after Loch Oich the took the forest path instead of the A82.

This was rather more rugged and hilly than expected and after about 20Km before we could rejoin the canal. We then finished the last two hours under the pouring rain.

We arrived at Fort William after 69 miles (109Km)tired and very wet after diner we to bed early.

The following mourning Wednesday we had late start to get my broken Brooks saddle replaced as the bike shop was not open until 9:00am. We set off about 9:30 from Fort Wlliam under the cover of rain along the A82 coast road which we followed besides Loch Linnhe to Ballachullsh and Loch Leven.

We had a steady rise and some rare sun through the Pass of Glencoe which help the 300m climb. Had lunch in a hotel in the middle of nowhere and then set off into a headwind with cold driving rain across Rannoch Moor and did not subside until we came downhill Tyndrum. We arrived at YHA in Crianlarich under the the pouring rain.

This was again another gruelling day of 55 miles and bedtime was early.

We set off early this morning, Thursday, under a light drizzle on the A82 and for a few miles had a steady climb and then all downhill we made the first 20Km in one hour after which the easiest start. The rest of the trip was a dream even the sun came out for most of the time and we got bottom of Loch Lomond in very good time and had picnic lunch in Duck Bay.

We picked up a most pleasant cycle route than took us into the heart of Glasgow following the river, canal and disused railway line, Sustran route 7.

Booked into very Posh YHA early, arrived a 2:50pm compared to other two previous days was after 6:00pm

Monday 5th July Inverness

After two days of headwinds we had a calm day with occasional brief showers and not a much uphill as in previous days we arrived in Inverness early at 4:00pm after cycling 54 miles, thanks to the benefits of getting on the road early.

Carbisdale Castle Youth Hostel

Start Point John O'Groats

And Now Some Photos

Sunday 4th July Update

Still in the land where 3 network has no coverage so reliant on the YHA computer access, sorry still no pictures but at least a short update.

Following a hearty breakfast at the Bettyhill Hotel of cereals, eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, tomato, mushrooms, some scottish pancake thing and a type of black pudding, toast marmalade we braved the horizontal rain and set of for a 35km of climb. We stopped at hotel at Altaharra for coffee before undertaking the last 150M climb, the sun came out whilst we enjoyed our coffee inside only to start as soon we got on our bike, we had to stop to put on our waterproofs again.

As I slowly climbed to the summit in the lowest gear possible the headwinds started and the rain continued a more bleak part of the world on could not imagine in the height of summer.

Eventually reached the summit just over half way and another 10Km of downhill but the headwind was strong enough to ensure coasting was not possible we all stopped at the only pub on route Crask Inn for a pint and instead of the expected Sunday lunch all we got was some liquid called Tomato & Veg Soup.

As we set off again the wind started up but at least it was all downhill after an hour and half of this the weather turned and we had pleasant ride through Lairg to Carbisdale Castle, a spectacular Victorian "castle" and now a most impressive Youth Hostel so many baroc staircases and passageways that you need a 3D map to navigate complete Leonardo Da Vinci statues in the great Hall

Progress Report 3rd July

Reached John O'Groat late on Friday 2nd July after long overnight train journey from London via Inverness to Wick. At YHA John O'Groats met team of enthusiasts who had just cycled Lands End to John O'Groats in just 6 days (145 miles per day).

Saturday 3rd July set off from John O'Groats at 8:10am and we reached Bettyhill at 6:00pm after a gruelling 57 miles including 3 one in nine hills.

Sorry there are no pictures yet as I cannot get internet access my computer.

Pictures and further updates to follow.